Why This Watch Matters

A simple, classic tool watch from UG, what could be better? This Climate-Proof is hard to find as well.

The Full Story

The 1940s and 1950s is really the period that set the tone for the modern watches we see and love today. Universal Genève was really leading the charge during this time for the production of true tool watches. Sure, later the brand had the Polerouter and we like to focus on their chronographs but the brand was making plenty of other great more simple watches during their heyday as well.

This time-only field watch is truly an excellent example of Universal Genève at its best. The screw-down caseback provides enough water resistance, or "climate proofness," for everyday wear while the sizing and lug shape is versatile enough to fit just about any occasion. The dial is where this watch really shines with a clean overall look, the numerals at 3, 9, and 12 are very UG in their style while the railroad minute track adds some dimension to the look with a silvered finish. The dial has now become known as a "climate-proof" style to UG collectors even if it doesn't have that printed branding.

More on what Climate-Proof was for UG. This additional branding is found on a few Compax examples in the early 1940s and, specifically for those watches, it references the use of a double snap back case. In the years immediately preceding UG's use of screwdown casebacks, especially in chronographs, the company created the Climate-Proof construction to give as much water and dust resistance as possible. Later, once screwdown casebacks were more common, the Climate-Proof branding was used on a select few watches – these rarely come up for sale today.

What we love about the Climate-Proof as an idea is UG pushing the envelope. This company made tool watches before tool watches were a "thing" and the Climate-Proof was aimed to be exactly that. In 2014, this watch would cause a similar kind of butterfly feeling for watch collectors as, say, a Chronomètre Bleu does today. These were once very hot and very sought after. While collector fervor has moved to other areas of the watch world, UG remains as great as it ever was in terms of design, construction, and collectibility – buy what you love.

The Fine Print

What We Love And What You Should Know

Things We Love:

- Uncommon Climate-Proof model
- Classic mid-century dial design
- Nice sizing for the era

Things To Know:

- Scratches on case
- Lume loss on dial

This Universal Genève is in overall nice, honest condition. The case has been lightly polished and has light scratches. The caseback has a few scratches from previous opening attempts but the UG logo is clearly visible. The reference and case numbers are present but mostly unreadable. There are some marks on the rear side of the lugs from strap changes over the years.

The dial is in good condition and has developed a fine patina throughout and a few light spots. The edge of the dial shows some wear. The lume on the dial shows signs of degradation and is absent from most pilots. The lume in the hands has developed patina and aged to a creamy tone. The hands themselves have a bit of patina. Overall the dial surface presents very clean and has a two tone look with the silvered outer track.

The crystal has light scratches and light crazing near the periphery that does not affect viewing of the dial. The dial, case, crown, and movement are all signed by Universal Genève. This watch was photographed on a 175mm/6.9inch wrist.